Patek Philippe is expanding its vast selection of chronographs by unveiling three variations of the 5204, 5905 and 5930 models that illustrate its expertise in the field of complications, particularly in the measurement of short times. The chronograph has always played a leading role amid the vast repertoire of Patek Philippe complicated watches. Since 2005, the Manufacture has confirmed this mastery by developing a complete range of chronograph movements, with or without additional functions, entirely designed and crafted in its workshops.
The starting point was calibre CHR 27-525 PS, the world’s thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement presented in 2005.
Introduced in 2006, calibre CH 28-520 – the second “in-house” chronograph movement – features automatic winding, a modern vertical disk-type clutch system, a flyback function, a large single counter at 6 o’clock and a chronograph seconds hand that can be used as a permanent (running) seconds hand. It can be combined with additional complications, as is the case with the two new models: 5905/1A (chronograph and Annual Calendar) and 5930P (chronograph and World Time).
Launched in 2009, calibre CH 29-535 PS – the third exclusive chronograph movement – combines traditional architecture (manual winding, column wheel, toothed-wheel horizontal clutch system) with six patented innovations. In the current collection, it powers a men’s model (Reference 5172) and a ladies’ model (Reference 7150/250). In 2011, this base calibre was interpreted in a Grand Complication version incorporating a perpetual calendar (CH 29-535 PS Q), present on the 5270 and 5271 models. Since 2012, it can also be found on Reference 5204 in a split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar version (CHR 29-535 PS Q). The various Patek Philippe chronograph calibres are offered in the current collection in more than 20 variations – to which three new, resolutely contemporary interpretations have now been added
The split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar Reference 5204 is heir to one of Patek Philippe‘s most sought-after Grand Complications. It has been available since 2016 in two rose gold versions, one with a silvered opaline dial and chocolate brown alligator strap (5204R-001), the other with an opaline ebony black dial and rose gold Goutte (droplet) bracelet (5204/1R). Patek Philippe offers connoisseurs a new variation on the rose gold case by combining this precious metal with a matching slate grey dial and strap. A rare and refined nuance that contributes to renewing the style of this great classic. The entirely hand-polished rose gold case stands out for its sophisticated architecture, with a concave bezel and two-tier lugs.
Despite the complexity of the movement, the indications on the “sunburst” dial stand out for their perfect legibility. The day and month are displayed in two in-line apertures at 12 o’clock. The date hand at 6 o’clock incorporates the moon-phase aperture. Small seconds and the instantaneous 30-minute counter appear on two subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock. Two small round apertures display the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock – functions enabling accurate adjustment of the calendar. Whether by day or night, reading the time is facilitated by the applied hour-markers and Dauphine-type hands in rose gold, all with luminescent coating. The transparent sapphire caseback offers a magnificent immersion into the heart of calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q, first introduced in 2012 on Patek Philippe Reference 5204P-001. This movement is distinguished by its traditional architecture (manual winding, two column wheels, horizontal clutch) combined with seven patented innovations, including six for the chronograph and one for the split-seconds mechanism. An amazing sight enhanced by extremely meticulous manual finishing. The new Reference 5204R-011 is worn on a shiny slate grey calf leather strap with an embossed alligator pattern and a rose gold fold-over clasp. Available with interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid casebacks, it is joining the two existing versions in rose gold.
Launched as a platinum model in 2015, then in rose gold in 2019, Reference 5905 combines two practical and easy-to-use complications: a self-winding flyback chronograph and a patented Annual Calendar. The Manufacture is reinterpreting the style of this much sought-after model by unveiling a first version in steel – a rare metal in the Patek Philippe collections – with a three-link integrated bracelet. This bold and casual design renews the way a Patek Philippe complication watch is worn on a daily basis.
The extremely rhythmical dial features a new elegant and contemporary sunburst olive green colour. It ensures excellent legibility for the additional functions, with a central chronograph hand, a large 60- minute subdial at 6 o’clock and three day/date/month apertures arranged in an arc for instant reading of the Annual Calendar indications. There is also a discreet day/night indicator at 6 o’clock that is useful for ensuring accurate date setting.
Visible through the transparent sapphire caseback, calibre CH 28-520 QA 24H remains faithful to the traditional column wheel for the transmission of chronograph commands. However, instead of a toothed-wheel horizontal clutch, it has a vertical disk-type clutch. This modern technical solution causes almost no wear and tear, and the central chronograph seconds hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display. The patented Annual Calendar automatically takes account of 30- and 31-day months, requiring only one correction per year, on March 1st. The polished steel case features a sophisticated construction with a concave bezel and recessed sides. The integrated steel bracelet is inspired by that of the Aquanaut Reference 5167/1A with its contrasting finishes (polished outer links and satin-finish inner links), while subtly distinguished from it by the underside of the bracelet and the edges which are polished, in line with the case. It is equipped with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent catches. The new Patek Philippe Reference 5905/1A-001 is joining existing References 5905P-001 in platinum with a blue dial and 5905R-001 in rose gold with brown dial.
Inspired by a one-of-a-kind model from 1940, Reference 5930 combines two functions: a self-winding flyback chronograph and World Time – an iconic complication in the history and collections of the Manufacture. This model was launched in 2016 in a white gold version with a blue dial and matching strap. Patek Philippe reinterprets this timepiece with a sporty and cosmopolitan spirit in a new version combining the brilliance of platinum with a green dial and strap. A combination of classicism and boldness that reinforces the personality of this cult model. The names of the cities are printed in green on the corresponding disk. The green dial centre illustrates the mastery of fine craftsmanship skills with a circular hand-guilloched circular pattern. This colour is picked up at 6 o’clock on the snailed 30-minute counter. The applied hour-markers and the faceted Dauphine-type hands in white gold are highlighted by a luminescent coating ensuring good legibility in all circumstances. The entirely hand-polished platinum case is set with a diamond at 6 o’clock. It features the “wing-type” lugs typical of 1940s-1950s World Time watches. As calibre CH 28-520 HU is equipped with a column wheel and the modern disk-type vertical clutch, the central chronograph hand can also be used as a permanent (running) seconds display – thus ensuring minimal wear and tear and without affecting the movement accuracy or power reserve. The 4 o’clock pusher enables instant restarting of a timing operation when the central hand is already performing an operation (“flyback” function) or is being used as a permanent (running) seconds display. The World Time function simultaneously displays the time in 24 time zones. When changing time zones, an exclusive patented mechanism enables correction of all displays by pressing the 10 o’clock pusher, without affecting the accuracy of the movement.
The new Patek Philippe Reference 5930P-001 is worn on a shiny bottle green alligator strap with a platinum fold-over clasp. It is joining the white gold 5930G-010 version with blue dial and strap.
